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How to Spot a Real vs. Fake Rolex

How to Spot a Real vs. Fake Rolex
A great watch is more than just a timepiece - it’s a symbol. For over a century Rolex has been crafting some of the world’s finest watches, and have become a household name. The watch has become an embodiment of wealth, luxury, style, and power. If you have one, you’re in. Unfortunately, such a prestigious brand name attracts counterfeiters. Fake Rolex watches are all over the place, from street corners to online markets. If you don’t know what to look for, you can easily get scammed out of thousands of your hard earned dollars.
Look on the bright side though, because Buyma’s got your back. Today we’re going to go over just about every way to tell a real Rolex from a fake Rolex. When you’ve finished reading, you’ll be able to confidently buy the finest watches — and turn down the duplicates.

Quality of Materials

The first, and most obvious way to tell if the Rolex you’re looking at is fake is the material it’s made of. A proper Rolex is made of durable materials that are meant to stand the test of time. As such, a real Rolex watch will have a heavy head/timepiece. A Rolex that’s head/timepiece feels very light and/or cheap is never going to be the real thing.
Don’t be too quick to cast your judgment on a watch if the entire thing feels lighter than your other Rolexs though. Older versions of the Submariner model can have hollow links, making them lighter than most current Rolex watches.

The Rolex Reference Number

After checking on the heft and feel of the watch, research that watch’s serial number. Rolex serial numbers are either 4, 5, or 6 characters long, and have a few features that can indicate whether a watch is real or fake. To start off, the quality of the serial number is a good clue. Whether it’s engraved or painted on, the craftsmanship will shine. If the serial number is off-center, poorly done, or rough to the touch, your watch is a duplicate.
The last digit of a 5 or 6 digit Rolex reference number is also significant - it tells you what material the watch is made of. Below is a list of all of the different materials your watch could be made of, and the corresponding final reference digit.
  • 0: Stainless steel
  • 1: Two-tone stainless steel & rose gold
  • 2: Two-tone stainless steel & platinum
  • 3: Two-tone stainless steel & yellow gold
  • 4: Two-tone stainless steel & white gold
  • 5: Rose gold
  • 6: Platinum
  • 7: 14K Yellow gold
  • 8: 18K Yellow gold
  • 9: White gold
If the serial number of the watch you’re looking at doesn’t match the advertised material, that’s a huge red flag. It would be better to scout for a Rolex elsewhere.

A Stuttering Second Hand

If you’re looking for an instant giveaway that a Rolex is a fake, look at the second hand. The inner clockwork of a real Rolex is expertly made, so on a real one the second hand will move smoothly around the watch face. On a fake? Unless the fake was made by an expert counterfeiter that second hand will stutter. If you see a stuttering second hand, don’t buy that watch!

Inspect the Crown

On any Rolex made after the year 2000, you should find a small crown seemingly etched into the glass. If the crown isn’t there that’s a bad sign, but even if it is the watch still could be a fake. This is because that crown is no ordinary engraving - it’s a Laser-Etched Coronet. The crown isn’t etched into the surface of the glass, it’s actually INSIDE of the glass. If your coronet stands out too much, or has texture to it, it’s likely a forgery.
It should be said that different Rolex lines can have their crown engraved in different places. Research your specific model before dismissing the watch as a fake. The Laser-Etched Coronet could simply be in a place you didn’t expect!

Both Crowns

Speaking of hidden crowns, the winder on a Rolex also has the signature coronet engraved in it. The quality of the engraving is another big tipoff when determining if your watch is real. If the crown and three dots below it are rounded and protrude slightly from the winder, that’s a good sign. Flat, dull engravings on the other hand, signal a forgery.

Check the Date

One of the signature aspects of the Rolex brand is their date tracker on the timepiece. Its lens, called a cyclops lens, is convex. This magnifies the date, making it easier to read. It also is a small bump, which can be felt by brushing your finger across the glass. If the date isn’t magnified at all, and the lens cannot be felt, you likely have a fake Rolex on your hands.
Certain Rolex models don’t come with a date piece, such as the Yacht-Master, Submariner, and Explorer I, so this method wouldn’t apply there. However, two models that might trip you up are the Deepsea and the Sea-Dweller 4000. Both of them have date trackers, but neither have the cyclops lens. If you’re looking for one of these two models, don’t use the date bubble method to determine legitimacy!

A Watch Case Never Lies

The caseback of a Rolex is as consistent as their overall quality. For starters, the caseback has a fine finish and a smooth texture. Color will be consistent throughout, with no jumps in tone or jagged lining. A fake Rolex will have much shoddier brushwork, with a mix of metals muddying the back of the watch. The grooves on the caseback of a fake Rolex will be deeper, causing the caseback to lose the shine that a real one has.
If you’re looking for an authentic Rolex at the best possible price — we’ve got you covered. Buyma pairs with trusted sellers and top authentication experts to get you legitimate luxury items at a price that will have you grinning ear to ear. So roll-ex on over to our site and grab a watch that’ll stick with you for decades!

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